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한식 읽기 좋은 날

2021
30

Vol 39. Jang

Drinking a Deep Longing for People Through a Cup of Andong Soju

2021/05/21 14:06:00
|
289

On a day filled with emptiness because the distance between people seemed never-ending, I recalled my journey to Andong a few years ago to drink Andong Soju. Who would know that a glass of alcohol I shared with the people of Andong during the trip would become such a major memory? I reminisce about the strong flavor and scent of Andong Soju by looking forward to the day when I will share a glass of Andong Soju, in the spirit of nostalgia, with the one I love, while looking over the Woryeonggyo Bridge. 

By. the Editorial Room Photo credit. Kim J

There are many spots that come to mind when you think of “Andong.” There are many places to visit, such as Hahoe Folk Village, Byeongsan Seowon (Confucian Academy), and Dosan Seowon (Confucian Academy), where you can get a glimpse of the Confucian culture during the Joseon era, and Andong 8 Sceneries, including Woryeonggyo Bridge, where a noble love for Wonie’s Mother is present. There are also many museums, including Andong Soju Museum, Hahoe Mask Museum, and Andong Folk Museum, and many more places to visit as the city has many cultural assets next only to Seoul and Gyeongju.
“Andong” is also an excellent place to visit during a gourmet tour. There are many “Andong-style” dishes, such as gan godeungu (salted grilled mackerel), hutjesabap (Andong-style bibimbap), geonjin gooksu (Andong-style noodle), Andong jjim dak (Andong-style braised spicy chicken with vegetables), Andong sikhye (Andong-style sweet rice drink), Andong euneo (Andong-style sweet fish dish), Andong hanwoo yangnyeom galbi (Andong-style marinated beef ribs), etc. 

 

Let's drink Andong Soju
When you go to Andong, you have to drink Andong Soju. You cannot help but be drunk with the strong, deep, and mild flavor and aroma of Andong Soju, which cannot be defined as a singular taste. All the places you must visit in Andong are distilled in Andong Soju. 
Andong Soju is a 45-degree alcoholic distilled beverage made by soaking non-glutinous rice in water, steaming it in an earthenware steamer to produce hard rice, mixing it with the yeast made of wheat and fermenting it to make liquor, and heating it after putting sojutgori (liquor distiller). Like other soju, Andong Soju became popular among influential families during the Koryo Dynasty, and gained its fame as the top 3 liquors from the Joseon Dynasty. 
However, there was a time when Andong Soju almost disappeared. Due to the revision of the Liquor Tax Law in 1962, the production of pure grain liquor was totally banned. Thankfully, the production of Andong Soju began again after the Andong Soju recipe was designated as the 12th Intangible Culture Heritage of Gyeongsangbuk-do. This is proof of the continuing existence of Andong Soju. 

Containing the Secrets of the Prestigious Andong Family from the Silla Dynasty
The first place I visited during this trip in my search for the taste of Andong Soju is the Andong Soju Museum. It is a place where you can experience the history and cultural characteristics of Andong Soju. It was founded by the late Master Cho Okhwa, who inherited and preserved the brewing secret of Andong Soju, which had been passed down from prestigious houses in Andong since the Silla Dynasty. Cho Okhwa, who was the 12th Intangible Cultural Property and the Korea Grand Master of Food, passed away in 2020, and her son, Kim Yeonbak, who was designated as the Korea Grand Master of Food in 2020, has been carrying on the family business. 
In the museum, you can personally see the secret of making Andong Soju, which has been passed down since the period of the Three States, and the origin and manufacturing process of Andong Soju, as well as the types of Korean traditional liquor, the genealogy of liquor, and jugs and glasses by period. If you have seen the hard rice and yeast, which are the main ingredients of traditional liquor, you cannot miss the exhibitions that show the distillation process. 
You must also visit the experience center where you can produce liquor as well as get a chance to sample the distilled Andong Soju. 

 

Bannam Park Family’s Gayangju Containing 500 Years’ Worth of Time 
The road to find the liquor taste of Grand Master Park Jaeseo, the master of Andong Soju, who is at the same rank as Master Cho Okhwa, is filled with excitement. The “Myeongin Andong Soju” distilled and fermented here is made with 100% hard Korean rice mixed with the yeast made from rice. Myeongin Andong Soju, being distributed under the name of Master Park Jaeseo, is a gayangju (home-brewed liquor) of the Andong Bannam Park Family with a tradition of over 500 years. Master Park Jaeseo belongs to the 25th generation of the Bannam Park Family, and is the 6th Korea Grand Master of Food. 
I was able to look around the product manufacturing process and the traditional liquor exhibition hall through prior permission, and I felt very proud to realize that Korean traditional liquor is not just an alcoholic beverage, but a work of art. Here, 45-degree Andong Soju and low-alcohol proof of 22- and 25-degree products were being manufactured. 
On New Year’s Day 2021, 15,000 bottles of Andong Soju (500 ml) were delivered to the Blue House as the President’s New Year’s gift to selected participants from the general public.

 

The interest in Korean traditional liquor is increasing both at home and abroad. What is unusual is that the popularity of this traditional liquor is led by the “MZ generation.” The popularity of traditional liquor is said to have been one of the main reasons for the spread of home liquor culture after the outbreak of COVID-19, and it is assessed that an increasing access to traditional liquor through subscription services was also effective. Moreover, the interest in spaces where you can learn and experience the taste and style of traditional liquor is also increasing.

The Sool Gallery - All about Traditional Liquors

It is a communication space for traditional liquor established by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food, and Rural Affairs (MAFRA) and the Korea Agro‑Fisheries & Food Trade Corporation to promote the taste, charm, and cultural value of Korean traditional liquors. It operates a permanent exhibition hall, where you can see the national traditional liquor with regional characteristics at a glance, an experiential program in which you can enjoy the flavor and aroma while tasting the traditional liquor personally, and a shop where you can purchase a variety of traditional liquor.
The Sool Gallery will operate at a store located in Gangnam-gu, Seoul, only until July this year, and it will resume operation at a new location in Anguk-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul. (Location and operation method: To be announced on the website at a later date.)
Meanwhile, MAFRA and the Korea Agro‑Fisheries & Food Trade Corporation have been operating “The Sool (www.thesool.com),” a comprehensive information site for Korean liquor products, to promote the value of traditional liquor. It covers all information on Korean traditional liquor, such as Korean breweries and traditional liquor produced by each brewery.


Inquiry: 02-555-2283   Website: www.thesool.com

 

 

“Korea Traditional Liquor Research Institute” a Place for Traditional Liquor Experience and Education

The Korea Traditional Liquor Research Institute provides an educational program on basic brewing theory in the same way as the traditional method. You can learn how traditional liquors are produced, and which aroma and flavor they have by personally making yeast and hard rice, and experiencing the fermentation process first-hand. 


Location: 3F, 62 Jahamun-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul        Inquiry: 02-389-9611        Website: www.ktwine.or.kr

 

업무담당자
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